November Again, Geneva Again
It’s that time of year again. The GPHG has announced its finalists for 2025. As an Academy member, I was part of the nomination process – and honestly, this year feels especially exciting. On November 13, the winners will be revealed in Geneva. Until then, I can speculate, dream, and name my favorites.
The Big Names Missing – Again
As every year, the established houses are absent: Patek Philippe, Rolex, Richard Mille. They don’t need awards – they write their own rules. But that’s exactly what makes the GPHG what it is: a stage for the creatives, the independents, the dreamers.
Ladies’ Watches: More Than Just Sparkle
In the Ladies’ Watch category, the Gentissima Oursin Fire Opal stands out. Loud, bold – and damn well made. The Royal Oak Mini is beautiful, but quartz… I’ll pass 😉
In the Ladies’ Complications, things get philosophical: a 44mm tourbillon with diamonds is not a ladies’ watch, sorry Jacob & Co. True ladies’ complications come from tiny movements, like in old pocket watches. The Hermès Cut Le Temps Suspendu shows how it’s done.
Time Only: Daniel Roth’s Comeback
The Time Only category belongs to Daniel Roth. Period. The Extra Plat is a damn good revival. Piaget shows something too, but Roth brings that emotional component that wins.
Men’s Watches: The Agony of Choice
This one’s brutal. The Chopard is a stunner, the Zenith with the G.F.J. Caliber 135 hits all the nostalgia notes. But my money is on the Grand Seiko U.F.A. – the most precise spring-driven watch in the world. That’s more than marketing, that’s pure engineering.
Complications Without Vacheron
Here, the absence of Vacheron Constantin really hurts. The Solaria would have dominated the field. Without it, the line-up feels thinner. The Urban Jürgensen UJ-3 is clever, yes – but lacks the emotional punch.
And then there’s… Kari Voutilainen ;-). His watches always move me – no matter what. Even when it’s a collaboration I wouldn’t normally care about: once Voutilainen’s hand is in it, I’m on board.
Tourbillon: The Show-off Category
The ultimate show-off category: Bulgari with the thinnest tourbillon in the world, Louis Vuitton’s creative reinterpretation, Urban Jürgensen’s pocket watch revival. And then that Fam al Hut Möbius from China – a bi-axial tourbillon nobody’s heard of. That’s the one I want to see!
Mechanical Exception: Exception…!
Louis Vuitton’s Escale au Pont-Neuf costs 3.15 million francs. I love it because it’s a piece of art in every sense. And from every angle. More affordable by contrast: the Hazemann & Monnin. At least you don’t have to sleep under the bridge…
Chronographs: Vintage Meets …
Andersen Genève delivers the first split-seconds world time in a 70s look. That’s exactly the kind of innovation I like. AP’s Royal Oak Concept is noteworthy and now available in a new color.
Petite Aiguille: For People Like Us
This is the category for normal people with normal budgets. NOMOS with its colorful world timer, okay. Otsuka Lotec could win again – after taking the Challenge Prize last year. “He” is Jiro Katayama. His No.6, which won in 2024, I wrote about here on the blog. I like!
Challenge: The Surprise
I like Christopher Ward’s design, but also Kurono’s! Hard to predict who’ll win this category.
My Thoughts Overall
The GPHG is incredibly important. It gives the small ones a stage, the dreamers a chance. While the big players go their own way, the true innovators fight here for recognition.
The traveling exhibition won’t come to the US this year – too bad for American watch lovers. But if you can, go see it. These watches are not just timekeepers, they’re manifestos of their creators.
On November 13, the winners will be crowned. Until then, I’ll keep dreaming of watches that shouldn’t exist – but thankfully do.
You can find the complete list of all finalists at gphg.org. And who knows – maybe we’ll see each other in Geneva.
